Are you looking for ways to add some character to your windows? Unless you’re already blessed with awesome window trim then I have just the post for you.
I will show you how to add character to your windows with just a little bit of elbow grease (where did this saying coming from 😕 ) and about $10. These plans are totally customizable to fit your taste and your window size and no angled cuts needed.
To add a little excitement I thought I would show you a way before pic and a before pic. Be careful you might miss the window in that first pic because your distracted by the cute wallpaper 😉 . This first pic is when we bought our house in August of 2016. Four months later this second pic is right before our kitchen remodel. Unfortunately I didn’t get a head on shot of the old window.
Here is the window now. After getting rid of the 8 inch soffit, demoing the old cabinets, adding new cabinets, counters and appliances. I am so in love with the new window!
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TOOLS FOR WINDOW TRIM
- Measuring tape
- Jigsaw – I used my Rockwell Bladerunner
- Stud finder
- Brad nailer
- Paint brush
SUPPLIES FOR WINDOW TRIM
- 1 x 6 x 8 pine board
- 1 x 4 x 8 pine board
- 1 x 2 x 8 pine board
- Wood filler – I use Elmer’s Wood Filler in Natural
- Wood glue – I use Elmer’s Wood Glue Max
- Liquid Nails
- 1 1/2 inch 18G brad nails
- Primer – I used Kilz 2
- White paint – semi gloss Pro Classic Extra White from Sherwin Williams for trim and doors
- White caulk – I used DAP White Acrylic Latex Caulk with Silicone
CUTS FOR WINDOW TRIM
*Your cuts will vary based on your window size. The cuts below are for a window 34 x 34 inches.
- 1 – 1 x 6 cut at 43 inches (ledge)
- 2 – 1 x 4 cut at 34 inches (sides)
- 1 – 1 x 4 cut 41 inches (bottom)
- 1 – 1 x 6 cut at 41 3/8 inches (top/header)
- 2 – 1 x 2 cut at 41 3/8 inches (top/header)
I thought it was helpful to see what is behind the walls of a window how a window is framed to get an idea of where the studs lie.
Picture credit to Do it Yourself Help
However still make sure to use a stud finder to find your studs and not assume that your particular window was framed this way.
Here is how my window looked after removing the original trim.
I made my cuts for all the pieces and then painted them before nailing them to the wall. I had limited space to work with on the sides so I figured it was easier to paint it first then later.
STEPS FOR WINDOW TRIM
Step 1) Ledge – Start out by measuring the window. I made the 1 x 6 ledge 9 inches longer than the window so there was a one inch overhang on the ends. Cut the ledge the total length then make the cuts for the corners.
To make the corners I used my Rockwell Bladerunner (or a jigsaw). To do this measure the depth of the window sill to know how deep to make the corner cut. For my window this was 2 5/8 inches deep. Then I cut the sides appr 4 1/2 inches (half of 9 inches the extra length cut as mentioned above). I didn’t cut it with these measurements initially I made cuts a little at a time to make for the best fit. I primed and painted the ledge. Then I applied liquid nails to the exposed brick and set the ledge on it. I used some weights to help the wood adhere. Make sure it is level. Don’t worry about any gaps those can be caulked later. Step 2) Sides – I primed, painted and nailed the 1 x 4 sides in using 1 1/2 inch 18G nails with my brad nailer. I used a square to help line it up with the window sill. Step 4) Bottom – To get the measurements for the bottom piece I measured from the outside edge of the side pieces. I primed, painted, lined it up with the sides, leveled it and nailed it. Step 5) Header/top – I started out by constructing the header. After the cuts I applied wood glue to the edge of the 1 x 6, lined up the 1 x 2 with the 1 x 6 using a square, clamped it together and nailed it. For the header I normally would have made it a little wider, but I was limited by the cabinets on the sides of the window. I caulked the inside corners where the pieces of wood meet. Then primed, painted and nailed it to the wall. Step 6) Finally I caulked the edges, nail holes, and all the areas the wood meets and any gaps. Then I touched it all up with paint. Caulk is definitely your best friend and I use it in so many of my projects.