Welcome Shiplap Lovers!
The shiplap look is all the craze these days and I admit I just can’t get enough of it. I have to hold myself back from wanting to shiplap every wall in my house in some way or another.
If you want to add some character to your space shiplap is an easy, cheap and fabulous way to do this. I participated in the One Room Challenge recently where I did an Industrial Farmhouse Kitchen Nook in six weeks. One element I added to this space was shiplap to the area that frames the bay window. I love the way it turned out and for this particular space it only set me back about $25.
Just a little tidbit of information. This is not traditional shiplap. Shiplap in its original form is horizontal boards with rabbet joints that overlapped each other. Before the days of sheetrock shiplap was historically meant to not be exposed and was usually covered with wallpaper.
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*Before you get started make sure you have your Safety Gear. For this project I recommend safety goggles, ear protection and optional N95 mask to prevent breathing wood particles during sawing and sanding.
TOOLS FOR BAY WINDOW SHIPLAP
- Measuring tape
- Stud finder
- Table saw – I use a Rigid Table Saw
- Miter saw
- Jigsaw – I use a Rockwell Bladerunner
- Nail gun
- Paint brush or small roller
SUPPLIES FOR BAY WINDOW SHIPLAP
- 1 – Sheet of 1/4 inch 4 x8 foot plywood
- 2 inch 18 G brad nails
- Painter’s tape – I used Frog Tape
- Popsicle sticks
- Wood filler – I use Elmer’s Wood Filler in Natural
- 150 grit sandpaper
- Primer – I used Kilz 2 Primer
- Paint – I used Sherwin Williams in Alabaster White flat sheen
CUTS FOR BAY WINDOW SHIPLAP
* Cuts will very depending on your particular area. My cuts ended up being app 5 1/4 inches wide with varying lengths.
I made my cuts using a table saw, however if you don’t own a table saw have the hardware store cut them for you.
STEPS FOR BAY WINDOW SHIPLAP
Step 1) Start out by measuring the area and marking the studs. I started planking with the space closest to the ceiling. I wanted to make two complete even boards in this section therefore this section decided the width of the boards, appr. 5 1/4 inches. For the first cut I put it right up against the ceiling. I attached the board using a nail gun and brad nails. When I attached the next board I used popsicle sticks as spacers. You can use a penny or a nickle, but I thought the popsicle sticks worked the best since it was longer and more even as coins do tend to vary in thickness.
I cut the boards in various lengths to stagger the boards. There is no method to the madness I just went with what I thought looked good. For cuts to frame above the door I used my Rockwell Bladerunner. A jigsaw works as well. To add shiplap around the bay window I cut a beveled angle of 45 degrees to the edge of the planks to create a smooth transition from the wall to the shiplap. I made my way down the walls. There was one tricky cut between the cabinets and the backsplash. To do this I traced it on the wood, cut it with the Rockwell Bladerunner, applied wood glue to the smaller piece and taped over the popsicle stick in place to help the glue set.
Step 2) Use wood filler to fill in all the nail holes. Once the wood filler dries, sand to smooth it.
Step 3) Apply one coat of white primer and two coats of paint. I used Sherwin Williams’ Alabaster White in a flat sheen. I am super happy with how it turned out…hhhmm what wall am I going to shiplap next.