Inside: A ceiling mounted pull up bar is a perfect addition to a home gym. Here is a detailed tutorial to make your own.
Our latest addition to the Home Gym Makeover is this DIY Pull Up Bar. Even if you’re not a pull-up ninja I found that a ceiling mounted pull bar offers additional features/uses/equipment that doesn’t even require doing one pull-up making it a great all-around addition to a home gym. Some other great additions to a home gym is this DIY Ballet Barre and the $3 DIY Workout Ball Holder.
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Pull up Bar Options
Choosing the right pull up bar will depend on your budget, time, preferences and space. Here are several types of pull up bars to consider:
- Doorway pull up bar – cheapest, quickest and easiest option. No installation or tools needed. Great for rentals/apartments.
- Wall mount pull up bar – a good mountable choice if a ceiling or doorway isn’t an option.
- Ceiling mounted pull up bar – another mountable option for appropriate height ceilings.
- Pull up bar stand/station – this is a free standing option, no mounting required.
Pull up Bar Accessories
Although I ashamedly admitted I can’t even do one pull up if I wanted to progress in my pull up skills I could consider this Pull Up Assist Band. When considering different grip options to work different muscles this Pull Up Handles Hook is a great add on. If I was a pull-up ninja I could use a Weight Lifting Dip Belt or Weighted Vest.
Several other accessories available that make a pull-up bar even more valuable to a home gym are Ab Straps, Gymnastic Rings, and Resistance Training Kits, which can all be attached or anchored to a pull-up bar.
Ceiling Mounted Pull Up Bar
Prior to this my husband had been using a doorway pull-up bar for several years. While this is a great option I was ready to graduate on to something more aesthetically pleasing. So needless to say I was happy to add the pull-up bar to our home gym and it added to the industrial feel I was going for in the space.
The cost of the project including the pipe, wood and hardware was app. $40. The pipe is located in the plumbing aisle. We found that purchasing a long 10 ft black pipe was cheaper than buying shorter individual sizes. We did have pipe leftover we can use for future projects. This is the exact piping we purchased. *Before you get started make sure you are using Safety Gear. I recommend safety goggles and ear protection for the power tools and the ever so sexy P100 respirator mask for applying stain and spray paint.
TOOLS FOR DIY PULL UP BAR
- Measuring tape
- Stud finder
- Drill – I use this drill
- Impact driver – I use this driver
- Hex bit sockets
SUPPLIES FOR DIY PULL UP BAR
- 1 – 2 x 6 x 8
- 3/4 inch x 10 ft black pipe (I found this in the plumbing aisle of The Home Depot)
- 2 – 3/4 inch elbows
- 2 – 3/4 inch flanges
- Rust-oleum Black Hammered spray paint
- Stain – I used Rust-oleum Sunbleached and Minwax Dark Walnut
- 8 – 1/4 x 4 inch hex drive washer head lag screws for the ceiling
- 8 – 1/4 x 1 1/4 inch hex head lag screws for the flanges
CUTS FOR DIY PULL UP BAR
*Keep in mind the length of the board in relation to how many studs you will want to drill the 2 x 6 to. We attached the 2×6 perpendicular to the studs and attached it to four studs. Make sure to check your ceiling studs and decide on the length prior to making all of your cuts. Your cuts may vary from ours depending on stud placement, direction of studs and preference.
*We had the pipes threaded and cut at The Home Depot. Customize these cuts to your preference. If you want the bar to hang down lower have your side bars cut longer.
- 1 – 2 x 6 at 50 inches
- 1 – 3/4 inch black pipe at 40 inches (horizontal cross bar)
- 2 – 3/4 inch black pipe at 9 inches (vertical side bars)
STEPS TO MAKE DIY PULL UP BAR
Step 1) After we had all the cuts we spray painted the pipes, elbows, flanges and lag screws with Rust-oleum Black Hammered spray paint. I didn’t spray paint the lag screws that went into 2×6 into the ceiling.
While this was drying I cut the 2 x 6, sanded and stained it. I like to layer stains. I started with the Rust-oleum Sunbleached and then layered the Minwax Dark Walnut over. This gave the wood a mix of gray and brown tones.
Step 2) Using a stud finder mark the studs on the ceiling where you plan to attach the 2 x 6. We were able to attach two lag screws into four studs. Using the ceiling stud measurements mark your bolt placement on the 2 x 6. Next, I assembled the bars. I did this by first attaching each sidebar to the flanges, attaching both elbows to the crossbar and then one sidebar at a time to the crossbar.
Then I placed the assembled pull up bar on the 2 x 6, centered it and traced my pilot holes for the lag screws for the flanges. At this point, the ceiling lag screws are already marked so I would know where all of the screws would be placed. I made sure to leave enough wood on each end to be able to insert the screws that would mount to the ceiling.
Then I drilled all the pilot holes for the flanges and the ceiling screws.
Step 3) For this part it’s helpful to have two people. We attached the 2 x 6 to the ceiling studs using hex screws. To attach the board we measured the distance from the closest wall to the edge of the board and inserted one screw. Then I pivoted the board to get equal distance along the length of the board to the wall. Our board was about 17 inches from the wall.
Keep in mind that walls aren’t always straight so do the best with what you have. We continued to check the measurements and inserted the rest of the screws along the board.
Step 4) We attached the bar to the board. Having the pilot holes already drilled made this much easier.
Because I can’t do a pull up I showed off my pull-up bar interpretive dancing skilz instead.
Here are the final pictures after the home gym remodel.
We are loving the addition to the workout room. What is your favorite item in your home gym? Would love to hear in the comments below.
Dream BIG and DO IT!