Inside: Make this DIY Console Table with a chevron pattern and casters to add some style and character to your space. It works well with many design styles such as farmhouse, coastal and rustic.
Build this DIY console table for around $50 (wood) and add some style to your living space.
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*Before you get started make sure you have your Safety Gear. For this project, I recommend safety goggles, ear protection and a P100 mask.
If you would like to build a whole living room set of matching tables, you can build this DIY console table (this post), DIY coffee table and DIY end tables for $150 (cost of wood).
TOOLS FOR DIY CONSOLE TABLE
- Tape measure
- Miter saw – I use this miter saw
- Table saw or circular saw
- Drill – I use this drill
- Kreg Jeg – I have the K5
- Sander – I use this orbital sander with 150 grit sandpaper
- 18G Brad nailer – I use this 18G brad nailer
SUPPLIES FOR DIY CONSOLE TABLE
- 3 – 2 x 4 x 8 (rip cut down to 1 1/2 inch wide) or 6 – 2 x 2 x 8
- 1 sheet of 48 x 96 x 3/4 inch sanded plywood (you use will about a half sheet)
- 4 – 1 x 3 x 8
- 32 – 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
- 24 – 1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
- Wood glue
- Wood filler
- Flat black spray paint
- Wood stain – I used Varathane Sun Bleached and Minwax Early American
- Glaze (optional)
- Black and white latex paint (optional)
- Sealer – I used Varathane Triple Thick Poly
- Casters (optional) – I used old metal casters my dad gave me
- Felt pads (optional – I added felt pads under the metal casters)
CUTS FOR DIY CONSOLE TABLE
*My console table measures app. 60L x 18W x 30T inches including the 5-inch casters. Adjust your measurements according to your sizing preference. Due to variances in thickness of wood, errors in measurements and cuts, I recommend cutting your pieces as you progress through the build. Remember always measure twice, cut once.
- 4 – 2 x 2s cut 54 inches for long sides of base
- 4 – 2 x 2s cut 12 inches for short sides of base
- 4 – 2 x 2s cut 23 1/2 inches for legs (keep in mind there will be casters attached for additional height) – also if you don’t attach casters add a few inches for clearance at the bottom.
- 2 – 2 x 2s cut 60 inches with a 45 degree miter cut for long sides of top frame
- 2 – 2 x 2s cut 18 inches with a 45 degree miter cut for short sides of top frame
- 1 – 3/4 inch plywood cut 57 x 15 inches for tabletop
- 1 – 3/4 inch plywood cut 54 x 12 inches bottom shelf
- Several cuts – 1 x 3s – sizes vary due to chevron pattern
STEPS TO BUILD DIY CONSOLE TABLE
Step 1) Start out by building the sides of the base. Drill 1 1/2 inch pocket holes on the ends of both the long sides and short side base pieces.
Attach the legs to the short pieces using wood glue and 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws. Wood clamps are helpful for this step. You will have two rectangle shaped sides.
Attach the long sides to the side bases using wood glue and 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws.
Step 2) Sand the base. At this point I sanded the base because I was planning on spray painting it. If you plan on leaving it one color you can skip this step and go straight to step 4.
Step 3) Spray paint the base. I chose a flat black spray paint so it would look like metal.
Step 4) Mark and drill pocket holes for the bottom shelf. I marked my pocket holes two inches from the ends and about 6-8 inches around the board. I used a 5/8 inch pocket hole as I found out that the screw poked through the plywood using a 3/4 inch pocket hole. I recommend doing a practice test on the boards to find the best pocket hole depth.
Attach the bottom shelf to the bottom 2 x 2 frame using 1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws.
Step 5) Attach the plywood tabletop using wood glue and 1 1/4 inch 18G brad nails.
Step 6) Cut and attach the tabletop frame. Apply wood glue to the edge of the tabletop plywood and nail the 2 x 2 frame to the plywood using 2 inch 18G brad nails. Make sure to run the nails along the bottom 3/4 inches of the 2 x 2 so the nails go in the plywood and not above it. It helps to hold a scrap 1 by board (3/4 inch thick board) up to the frame to keep it flush as you nail all four sides of the frame.
Step 7) Cut and add your chevron pieces. I marked center and drew a horizontal and vertical line on the tabletop. This helps for your measurements and for keeping the chevron pieces aligned. Start in the center and work your way out. You may have to make several cuts to get the pieces to fit well. To make the chevron pattern each end has a 45-degree miter cut. Dry fit all your pieces to test them out.
Once you are satisfied then keep all the pieces in place and apply wood glue to one piece at a time. Allow to dry.
Step 8) Attach casters (optional). To attach the casters I glued and nailed a scrap 1 x 3 piece in each corner. Mark and drill pilot holes and then attach the casters.
Step 9) Apply wood filler and sand the top of the console table. I applied wood filler to all the nail holes and to small gaps between the chevron pieces. I sanded using 150 grit sandpaper.
Step 10) Apply stain. I layered two different stain colors, Varathane Sun Bleached and Minwax Early American to get a light grayish/brownish tone. Then I actually had to go back and touch up the black paint after I applied the stain.
I mixed 4:1 glaze to black latex paint and dry brushed it. I repeated this with a 4:1 glaze to white latex paint and dry brushed it on as well. This added a worn, layered look.
Step 11) Apply a sealer. I used a triple-thick poly and applied a couple of coats. I also added felt pads to the bottom of all the casters to keep it from scratching the floors.
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